I wanted to add some height to my Fallout board and somewhere for my players to explore so went on the lookout for tall building suitable for the setting. I spotted TT Combat’s Lincoln Building and it looked perfect. I prefer to do my own distressing and destruction so didn’t want an already broken up model.
I mistakenly thought the model came with interior floors, but on opening it found it didn’t. It’s a good value kit even without floors and still contains a lot of MDF!
Undeterred, I dry assembled the bulk of it to get an idea of the size of it (big!), and to start planning where I’d be chopping it up.
I pulled everything else off the sprues and tidied them up with a knife. There are a lot of bits!
As this will have a painted interior, assembly and painting go hand in hand. I wanted to experiment with textured paint on the exterior so I masked up where the vertical exterior columns would be glued…
And used a spare bit of sprue to test the paint on…
It goes on very wet so don’t be tempted to touch it until it’s fully dry! It’s very easy to smudge and get fingerprints in. And a bugger to get them back out.
Some more masking…
And then I took it outside and gave each outside wall a full coat.
You can see the thumb print on the bottom where I held it (I was holding it by the masking tape so no harm done).
I undercoated everything else (and the interior walls) with poundland primer.
Once the stone texture paint had dried, I peeled off the masking tape. Always satisfying 🙂
And dry fitted the columns to make sure everything still fit. Paint can add enough extra thickness to throw joints off so it’s worth checking.
Next came some more masking. I masked off the panels on the columns.
And gave it a spray with poundland matt black spray.
I did the same for the roof edging.
I dry fitted the roof parts.
And the walls again. The exterior base colours were pretty much done.
Next, I turned my attention to the interior. I had a couple of criteria in my head as I was building. I’d like to be able to pull out the interior and swap it for another if possible and, I didn’t want to have to make loads of stairs (they take up a lot of floor space too!).
The building needs a lift! Having played around with the positioning, I determined the rear wall of the building would be a sensible place, opposite the main door.
I cut out a lift shaft from 3mm Foamex board. I spaced the doors to line up with the floors, guessed from the location of the windows.
I made a rough box and cut some floor templates using the roof as a guide.
Once I had the structure of the interior working in my head. I turned my attention to destruction!
I wanted to expose the interior that I would be lavishing time on so selected a corner away from the wall that supports the fire escape and went at it with a craft knife. MDF is pretty easy to cut and carve with a knife.
I began to further distress the exterior, cutting random chunks from the stonework.
And attached the window frames with superglue (sprayed with poundland black).
I dry fitted the interior again to make sure I’d left myself some room and get an idea of how much of the interior would be visible.
The floors needed some support, so I cut out some small 5mm cubes of foamex.
I attached them with superglue to top of the wall of each floor. That way to floor above rest in the right location.
I chopped up the floors and dry fitted everything again.
I didn’t want the floor to sag around the lift doors so I added braces there too.
I cut some rough doors from plasticard and a lift sized box from foamex and jammed it into the lift shaft. I bent to doors with my fingers until I was happy with the shape.
I added a few foamex wall to the interior floors. I used a spare door to size any doorframes and styrene sheet to add details.
My faithful hound, rapt with interest as usual…
I cut out small rectangles of styrene and glued them to the lift shaft for control panels.
And ran a quick bypass on one using some copper wire.
Undercoated Deadzone Enforcer for scale…
I distressed the floor with a craft knife and whatever tools of violence I had to hand and superglued more copper wire into the floor to represent exposed rebar.
All concrete floors wouldn’t be very interesting or realistic for an office block, so I carpeted areas of the floor with tissue paper, dampened down with water+PVA and wrinkled & textured while it was wet.
Once that was dry it was time for more dry fitting…
… and once I was happy with the fit, I undercoated the interior with poundland grey primer. This formed the base coat for all the concrete areas too.
Now everything was base coated, or at least undercoated. I pulled out my Apex airbrush and sprayed the interior walls with Vallejo off white. I focused on the centers of each wall and kept my airbrush strokes vertical.
I used tamiya flat black to shade the floors and walls. Darkening edges, corners and damaged areas.
I airbrushed the carpets in a couple of different office carpet colours, purple and blue.
There was a little overspray, but the dirt and weathering to follow will hide that.
I let the interior dry overnight and the next day pulled out my Windsor & Newton oils and started to dirty it up. I used burnt sienna, yellow ochre, burnt umber and black to add grime to floors. I used Sansodor Odorless Thinners to wet the floor and help blend everything together. You don’t need much oil, a tiny bit will go a long way.
I didn’t take long to do all the floors in the same manner.
The walls were weathered by dotting them with random spots of oils and then using a damp, wide brush to pull the dots into streaks down the wall. Keep your brush clean and the strokes going vertical, top to bottom.
Another dry fitting…
And a few close up shots to check details…
The interior walls were next. Using the same technique and colours. Here’s the process in a little more detail.
Squeeze out a little of each colour onto a paper towel.
Use a small brush to dot the colours over the surface randomly.
And use a damp wide brush to pull the dots down the wall…
The floorplate was also suitably weathered.
Oils take a while to dry. So I put the interior to once side and assembled the fire escape. It matters which way round the holes in the floor are (they alternate) so assemble it by dry fitting it to the outside wall to make sure your holes line up.
I stippled on vallejo black brown and a couple of shades of MIG rust colours with a sponge to give it chipped, rusty look.
Once the interior oils were dry. I lightly hit all the edges with offwhite. The interior is shadowy and the edges were getting lost. This helped bring them back out again.
The lift shaft in place:
I had one last dry fitting…
… before I headed off for 8 days, pack-rafting and hiking up the Great Glen Way in the Scottish highlands.
… but that’s another story 😉
After I came back, I took up where I left off. The air conditioning units got a stipple of off white.
And the edges hit with a stipple of black brown.
I pre shaded the exterior with my airbrush and Tamiya flat black and added smoke effects by pulling the airbrush up the wall above the window. Build up slowly and steadily.
I nipped outside to take a look at it in the daylight and make sure I hadn’t missed anything obvious…
Happy with how it was looking, I attached the fire escape.
And dirtied up the exterior with green and brown oil washes.
A quick test on the table…
I was entering the home stretch now, so I tried out a few poundland christmas lights (white) to give the interior a lift.
Once I’d found a layout that worked, I superglued them in place and then attached the floors to the lift shaft.
I fitted everything back into the box, and dusted with earth & concrete pigment powders. I closed the lid and took it outside for some daylight shots. It’s a wet, late November here in the UK and not ideal conditions for photos. I’ll see if I can get some more if the sun shows up…
Another easy to assemble kit from TT Combat with plenty of scope for customisation and the perfect addition to my Fallout table.