Build & Review: TT Combat’s Dinogas Filling Station – 28mm MDF Wargames Terrain

The Kit

TT Combat have got a fantastic range of MDF terrain out at very sensible prices. I visited their vendor stand at this years UK Games Expo and picked up a few of their pieces. This was one of them:

The Dinogas Filling Station. I can’t remember how much I payed for it on the day but it wasn’t much (less than £20)!

It immediately shouted FALLOUT to me and, with an upcoming Fallout RPG due to land I was keen to get some post apoc stuff built.

The genre is a bit outside my comfort zone but having spent countless hours wandering the wastelands with Dogmeat I had a good idea about the look and feel.

I plan for my players to discover this and set up base. I’m building it in it’s ruined state as the players find it. I’ll build it again once they’ve cleaned up and customised it a bit…

The Build

As this has a playable interior, it’s *much* easier to paint that first before assembly. I livestreamed the first 5 *long* hours of me prepping, undercoating (with grey UMP primer) and getting the base coats down and the first bits of grime on the interior walls. It’s riveting watching for masochists so I’ll summarize it below…

The build is quite modular: The roofs are separate and can be lifted out for access during play, so I assembled those as one pieces and left the walls and floor separate so I could paint.

I undercoated everything in UMP Grey primer. It’s a mid grey so made a nice basecoat for the weathered concrete look I was after.

Once that was dry I airbrushed some vallejo model color off white thinned with UMP thinners on the interior walls. I intentionally made the finish patchy (apply paint in a random pattern) to help age the concrete. I repeated the same for the exterior walls but with tamiya light grey.

The vallejo dries with a slight satin/gloss finish which helps with the oil weathering.

I grabbed some winsor and newton oil paint tubes (black, burnt umber, ochre & burnt seinna) and squirted a smidge of each out onto a paper towel – this leaches some of the oil away from the paint which helps it to dry faster.

Next I took a brush and dabbed tiny blobs of burnt umber oil paint along the tops of the interior walls, under window ledges and anywhere I thought needed some visual interest. I took a large flat brush, moistened (not soaking) in Sansodor odourless thinners and then began dragging the oil blobs down the walls using light, feathery top to bottom strokes only. The oil has a long working time and you can practically remove all of it with thinners if you mess up. Just keep the brushstrokes going top to bottom and keep your brush clean.

I dry fitted the walls to make sure none of the corners looked odd.

The floor was handled pretty much the same as the walls. I individually sprayed each tile with the airbrush using off white – sounds tedious, but goes quickly once you get into the rhythm. I stained it with oils like the walls, but this time I dabbed the tip of the brush into the oils on the floor to spread them out.

The garage floor was masked off with tamiya masking tape and sprayed with tamiya flat black.

The exterior (laser cut cardboard) details were sprayed with model colour dark sea blue.

Once the burnt umber oils had been given time to dry a bit (a put mine under a lamp to speed it up). I made a wash of olive green oil paint and applied it to the bottom of the walls. I held the walls upside down so any errant green wash would travel *up* the wall naturally. I built it up around the corners too.

It’s a good job this is a junk build – the tarmac’s already getting dirty. In a neat build I’d leave the tarmac till last.

A gave the floor the same treatment, again focusing around the edges.

Now it was time to work on the air con unit. I base coated them in off white and ripped a bit of sponge up to apply AK rust colours (a dark and a light).

First the dark, then the light.

I stuck the interior unit to the wall, and used some burnt sienna to drag some rust down the wall beneath to show how water had been driven in from outside.

I base coated the shelves in off white and dirtied up the walls to blend them in.

I wanted all the signage to look chipped and battered, so I took a small brush and dotted in off white following the laser etch marks. I tried to break up the edges randomly to indicate chipped paint.

I then dragged some burnt sienna oil over the top to blend it in.

I did a lot of dry fitting throughout the build to make sure the walls lined up and to see where the views would be.

The tarmac was looking suspiciously clean so I sprinkled a small amount of vallejo white, earth brown and light slate grey pigment powder around.

I focused the earth powders around the door to show dirt brought in by vehicle.

I worked in the powders with a clean dry brush.

I dry fitted the roofs and realise how dark it inside with the roofs on 🙁

There are a few places where the mdf join is visible. One inside, and 4 outside. I made up some L beams from flat plasticard to hide the seams.

Those metal things are engineers 1-2-3 blocks. They measure *exactly* 1 inch by 2 inches by 3 inches and are machined with *exactly* flat sides and *exactly* 90 degree corners.

They can cost £100’s – theys cost less than £20 are are probably off by a micron which I can live with. They are solid steel and have some useful weight to them. I use them a lot when lining up walls while gluing.

Those black patches are test pieces of tarmac to test oil stains out on.

Test complete, I dabbed on some thinned black oil paint to form oil patches on the tarmac. I can’t tell you the ratio – you just have to try it – which is why I made the test pieces 😉

You want it to be thin at the edges and thicker in the middle. Go back and infill the middle once you’ve established the shape.

One thing I love about Fallout is the clutter. I had planned to print out some Fallout paperwork in miniature but my printer failed so I cut up 5mm square bits of magazines. I tried to find the smallest print I could but a lot of it is out of scale. Thankfully your eyes tend to gloss over it when its in a pile.

I tinted some with burt umber and ochre oils and left some uncoloured.

I let it dry then sprinkled some around to see how it looked. Nothing was fixed in place yet…

Happy with the interior, I turned my attention to the exterior.

Only then did I spot that I’d attached the front roof flashing in the wrong location! Way too high!

 

I prised it off with a long bladed craft knife and stuck it back on in the correct location.

Looking at the effect after it was pulled off, I wish I’d done it to the rest of the model!

I stippled the darker facings with a sponge dipped in a slightly lighter blue/green to mottle the painwork using the AK rust colours again, I chipped the facings.

First the dark, then the light.

Any overspill onto the window frames is covered up with further weathering.

The tamiya grey I used for the outside is much more matt/chalkier than the vallejo I used in the interior so it reacts to oils slightly differently.

You can still spread them around, but the working time is drastically reduced. With this in mind I got everything ready and hit the ground running.

First blobs of paint where I want to start the streaking.

Grab the moist brush.

And work it in.

The exterior would be much more heavily weathered so I used black and umber to add areas of contrast.

I did the remaining walls. I always keep the first finished piece in front of me as a reference for the others.

Happy with the exterior finish, I assembled the walls. No going back now!

I had a couple of ideas for the windows. I may come back and board them up as the players fortify their base in the early days but I definitely wanted some broken glass in them to start.

I cut up a sheet of clear acetate sheet that I’d found in a skip, the sort they use for overhead transparencies or separators in ring binders.

And superglued it round the edges of the window frames.

Usually when I’m gluing glass in I’ll use PVA or model makers Canopy glue as superglue gives off fumes that can frost plastic. I was hoping it would here, it did in a few places, but not as much as I’d hoped. Oh well…

That may be my thumbprint on the top right window pane. Please don’t steal my identity.

I’ve been looking around for some 28mm Fallout figures for when I get my figure painting foo back – and spotted (and ordered) these from Brother Vinni’s

With the glass in, the interior was ready for some more dirt. I crumbled up the scatter and sprinkled it around, blowing it into corners and fixed it in place with some dilute pva. As it was drying I sprinkled pigment powders around too.

Onto the rest of the exterior. I airbrushed up the roof walls to off white and picked out the signs with a bright green. It’s the same green I used for the dino logo.

That sign’s looking FAR too clean. Out with the sponge and some vallejo black brown to chip it up.

And then some dark rust…

and then some lighter rust…

and fixed it in place.

I weathered the roof walls in the same way as the other walls, blobs of oil along the top, dragged down with a moist brush.

I airbrushed the petrol pumps with off white and picked out the logo and highlights with the vallejo green. I chipped them using a sponge and vallejo black brown again.

I rusted them up with some burnt sienna oils.

And that was pretty much it. I tidied round a few places and took it out into the daylight to take some glamour shots. Overall an excellent kit that I’ll be coming back to again! There’s still some bits and pieces I might do to this but for now, it’s done.

The Result

 

Update, I got a nice shoutout on WAYPN Q3 – its about 21 minutes in (watch the whole thing though – there are some stunning builds):

Materials

Here’s some of the materials I used to build and paint this kit. You’re not obligated to use them and I can’t guarantee you’ll get the same results if you use them but they are the best I’ve found at what they do. These are affiliate links so I get a tiny bit of cash if you go on to buy something after clicking them at no additional cost to you.

 

 

 

 

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2 comments on “Build & Review: TT Combat’s Dinogas Filling Station – 28mm MDF Wargames TerrainAdd yours →

  1. Hi,
    I have a question if that is ok?
    I’ve seen this technic a few times now:

    “Next I took a brush and dabbed tiny blobs of burnt umber oil paint along the tops of the interior walls, under window ledges and anywhere I thought needed some visual interest. I took a large flat brush, moistened (not soaking) in Sansodor odourless thinners and then began dragging the oil blobs down the walls using light, feathery top to bottom strokes only. ”

    Does the oil paint hase to be dry when dragging down or is this step done immidiatly?
    I bought some AK interactive weathering paint but I just cant get it work.

    Maybe you can give me some tips?
    Thx

    1. Hi Richard (great name!)

      I squirt out a bit of raw oil paint from the tube onto a piece of kitchen roll. The kitchen roll soaks up a bit of the oil carrier medium and helps the oils dry a bit quicker. I apply it immediately (while wet) – oil takes a long time to dry so there’s no rush – and then begin to work it with the damp brush. If it goes wrong, you can wipe the majority of it off with thinners.

      Keep your brush strokes going from top to bottom – if you go side to side, you’ll merge the oil streaks into one big blob. Keep cleaning out your brush too otherwise everything turns to a uniform brown.

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